Notes on GHT

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Notes on GHT

There was silence.

Not a silence in comfort, but not an uncomfortable one either. It was more like the dense weight of emptiness. They sat around, without talking, a numbness lacking introspectiveness, a quiet that was neither one of reflection nor one of meditation.

Suddenly, a laughter. Then another. And then a chorus.

Everyone looked around, but it wasn’t coming from them. It was coming from the Sherpas who were cooking in the next tent over . Sean stood up, carefully, as to not place too much pressure on his frostbitten feet, and walked over to the tent emitting the boisterous commotion.

And as he looked into this tent set near the top the world, there was a cluster of people singing songs through the laughter of their hearts. And upon witnessing the joy bellowing from those most consider having so little, Sean could suddenly feel the grip of his grandfather’s hands. The fact of the matter was, these people sitting on these mountains, so small compared to the shoulders of titans from which they sat, these people had everything.



Pre-Expedition — 16 August

Arrived this morning after some long flights and a humid swamp slap in the face
from the desert of Qatar. I was honored to sit by a 23-year veteran of the military
and affable human being, on our way over to Doha. We went toe-to-toe with libations,
talked shop on all things Afghanistan and military and had a ruckus good-time.
The Hotel Marshyangdi is quite pleasant -was greeted by the staff, had a meeting and
tea with the owner Karma Gurung, and then headed over to his newest business – a
mountaineering store with coffee shop. The traffic and pollution is still the same here…
cloudy, with a chance of black lung. I’m a bit ragged from lack of sleep, so I’ll stop the ramblin.


Pre-Expedition — 17 August

Rock Radio Nepal Hardcore and Guest DJ Opportunity

Sat down with Bijaya, Exec Chairman of Dream Nepal Travels and Nijjal, the
Managing Director with Rock 98.3 FM in Kathmandu for an interview – the
first interview for Nepal Tourism Board’s promotion of the tourism year
2011. Afterwards we sat for some tea and we began discussing music and how
we could possibly collaborate with the entire country of Nepal through the
over 200 FM stations in the network and interview me while on the trail.
Radio is huge in Nepal, and more often than not, the only way they receive
their news and entertainment.especially in the remoter regions. Stay tuned,
we may have over 20 million Nepalese following the expedition via radio.
Nijjal will be having me be a guest DJ when I return from the trail for my
own rock radio show – I’ll MC and choose the song list for a few hours. We
are also in the initial stages for developing our own ‘Nepal-apalooza’ and
getting the most famous musicians in Nepal together for a jam session in
Kathmandu to promote the year of tourism 2011.


Pre-Expedition — 19 August

Stick a fork in me, I’m officially a fat cow. I’ve gained weight for the
expedition knowing full well that diarrhea and other ‘fun’ ailments will
occur. I’ve gained 10-15 pounds in the past few days here in Kathmandu,
which if you know me personally, isn’t that challenging for me to accomplish
if I don’t exercise. When ones strives to live life at it’s highest levels,
there is no moderation in one area.

Permits should be completed by tomorrow.good thing, we leave for the
Nepal/India border on Saturday.


Pre-Expedition — 20 August

Up late last night with logistics, slept about an hour, and back at it.we
leave this morning in a few hours.lots remain to be done. The Explorers Web
interview is online here.

Yesterday I was fortunate enough to see Zanko, which is a rare celebration
for a grandma who was celebrating her 90th birthday. It is very rare for a
person to ge to that age in Nepal .This is a typical Newari tribe tradition.
Newars are original inhabitants of Kathmandu. The whole day consists of
pooja’s (rituals) and after blessings from the priest they place the
grandmother in a carriage and drag/carry through the city patan by temples
in in the streets. Afterwards there is a huge celebration and party. We
offered her presents of cloth for a dress, sandals, and scarfs. I was
honored to experience such a terrific celebration and they treated me as
family. ?


Pre-Expedition — 21 August: At the Border of Nepal/India

A long day of Nepali/India travel, but we have arrived at the border where
the real ‘fun’ begins.

Staying at the Sher-e-Punjab lodge, Pashupatinager, Nepal. I’m about ¾
minute walk to the border. Inter-Nepal airlines don’t need no stinkin
passport. Hell, they don’t even need ID, as long as you pay for a ticket.
After arriving in Biratnagar, we found a local car to hire and drive us to
the border. I did not see one western tourist.or any other tourist for that
manner the entire day all the way to the lodge. That said, you can easily
assume that this is not a high tourist travel destination. The usual travel
adventure fun – high humidity, hot, sweating in the back of the car.flat
tire.repair flat tire.driver stop to ask owner of car if it’s okay to take
car to border.stop in 2 different places to get driver permits.stop to have
roadside repair hut fix blown tire.stop for bananas.stop for gas -
twice.stop to switch cars once first auto can’t make it up the climb of a
small mountain.monsoon pounding rains in the mountains.fog and cloudy
switchback and curvy driving.fall asleep to the cool breeze from the monsoon
rain and mountain air.waking up to the sidar telling me we’re here.
Hopefully tomorrow they’ll be a break in the monsoon to allow for the some
principle shooting at the border. I’d really like to start off the trek on a
dry note.


E088.07.316 At the border



DAY 1 — 22 August: Pashupatinager to Ilam

First day started off nicely.we gathered at the border, took some photos,
did some principle shooting..it was cloudy, but not raining.then we set off,
and that’s when one of the worst days in the hills for me began to take

The key to any successful run through the GHT is local assistance with
trails. The monsoon rains, cloudy weather and local’s lack of directions put
the day in jeopardy. We were greeted with monsoon pounding rains, something
that should be a regular devil for the next 3 weeks. My clothes were
drenched, my gear soaked, and I didn’t arrive in Ilam until 11pm. The
guesthouse was closed, but we managed to get the one person policeman on
duty to call them so they let us in. Some of the other porters did not
arrive until 2am, and we were all were too dam tired to eat. The ONE
positive element – my mind is clear, anxious and focus, more so than at any
time in the past 3 years.

Arrive Ilam



Wired data

Steps taken: 64,917

Hours: 14:07

Miles: 30.76

Gain/Loss Elevation: 14,584


DAY 2 — 23 August: Ilam to Magalbure

Woke up tired, achy, and hungry. It was pouring outside. My clothes were
still drenched, not the least surprised. I headed out in a downpour,
remained that way the entire day until last half hour. Have been introduced
to leeches on my arms. They are everywhere. Boots are soaked and muddy, the
monsoon is relentless, and I long for dry, high altitude. Might become a
problem with dispatches I’ve yet to see the sun, and don’t think I will for
the coming weeks, so no solar panel’s to charge the systems. The Sherpas are
as much an oddity in this district as I am. Most tribes in this region have
never seen foreigners and hardcore people as the Sherpas, who carry loads
over 100lbs while wearing sandals. All the support staff with me are from
the Khumbu region of Nepal. I’m sure they are looking for some breaks once
the mules and jolpa take shape for carrying loads. The photo is of the Limbu
tribe. The tribe in Magalbure are the Chatti. Our sidar
states they too have
never seen foreigners so I need to careful about certain areas of gear, etc.

Wired data

Steps taken: 39,361

Hours: 8:26

Miles: 17.91

Gain/Loss Elevation: 11,986





DAY 3 — 24 August: Malgabure to Dobately

My immediate apologies go out to my parents on this dispatch. Today I was
introduced to raging, pissed-off, white foamy rivers that I was forced to
cross by large bamboo. Not too big a deal until I realized that they were
completely drenched and there were no bamboo railings to hold on to. If you
fall, well, I think you know what happens. It reminded me of being in
icefalls on several peaks, using ladders to cross over endless
crevasses.with 2 exceptions – icefalls have ropes on both sides to use as
railings (most of them), and you can clip in for protection in case you
fall. Not here. After the first one my heart was pounding so fast, sweat was
pouring down through my shirt. My feet continue to get worse from the
knee-high river crossings, streams, and other wet fun. There is no point
putting on clean socks in the morning, because after the first crossing, it’s
a mute point. I have 3 sores that ooz puss and blood. The bottoms of my feet
feel like spikes are being jammed into them with every step. Good highlight:
at around 7:30pm, We’re scrambling in the dark, having met up with the
sidar, trying to find a place to stay, when we walk upon a house. The sidar
asks the owner if the team can stay for the night telling them about the
‘foreigner’ trekker. Well, eyes light up and immediately they open their
home, no questions asked. I was flabbergasted. But wait, it get’s better.
Then while we wait for the porters to arrive, who were 45minutes behind us,
the husband/wife offer me their bedroom as to where I can sleep. Now I’m
dumbfounded. This smelly foreigner and all his gear in tow walks into their
home, and they offer him the room where they’ve slept for years. Get’s
better.then the owner sends his son to all his neighbors houses to let them
know they’ve got a foreigner at their home and they all start rolling in.
They kill a chicken on-site (I can hear the brief cockle of death), and then
we begin dining on all local fair – chicken, vegetables from their garden,
rice, etc. While I eat, everyone just stares at me smiling. Maybe it’s
because I have red hair, am tall, or that I use utensils, all unique for
them. They use their fingers to eat, mix and shovel their food. I come to
find out the owner is 59 years old, a headmaster at the local school, and
has been living in this house his entire life.as well as his parents before
him, their parents, etc. I think of this as I close my eyes to go to sleep
in the ‘master bedroom’. I am both honored and in awe. I’m sleeping in the
room of a family’s history. This is sacred, but also a little creepy. Just
another memory I can take with me forever from an intense, pounding
expedition that has even barely begun. I’m hitting on only the highlights of
today, there is so much more. I’ll save those for stories by the campfire.

Wired data

Steps taken: 63,396

Hours: 11:14

Miles: 30.04

Gain/Loss Elevation: 12,923

HR l/m: 56/149





DAY 4 — 25 August: Dobately to Therathum

The trials and tribulations continued with my feet as they each felt like
they had their own beating hearts.

Saw a ninja scorpion on the GHT. Told they can kill with their bite.makes
the porters jumpy because most are wearing open sandal shoes. Everything I
do, every move I make, is watched by roaming eyes. At first it’s fine, but
after awhile you can’t do anything without everyone from town coming to
watch what you’re doing. Take a drink, eat food, just standing there.they
are watching something foreign, something new, something from outer space. I
have learned Nepali time and distance is very different than anywhere else.
30 minutes to town means 1.5 hours. Just around the corner means half-way
down the mountain. Another late day.didn’t get into the checkpoint village
until way after dark. At least this time the moon was out which provided
some light. My feet were throbbing so bad I could barely walk. Felt sorry
for my cook, Lapka Sherpa.we stayed at a s***hole guesthouse, and he was
sleeping in the basement behind the cement outhouse. I was awoken by a
singing Nepali at 4am, who decided to walk into my room, interrupting the
mosquitoes, who were dining on my skin.

Wired data

Steps taken: 55,144

Hours: 14.5

Miles: 27.28

Gain/Loss Elevation: 16,459

HR l/m: 60/145





DAY 5 — 26 August: Therathum to Madi

How serious is this expedition? Woke up to 2 of our team sherpas wishing me
luck as both have bowed out to injuries. The assistant guide to knee
problems and the cook’s assistant to feet sores. I expected the porters to
leave throughout the expedition, just not this soon.especially not an
assistant guide. I’ve decided to use pain as a friend, an advantage versus
adversary. I wrapped them up in bandages, slapped on some medicated strips,
and hoped the pain wouldn’t be too bad. Pain is all in the mind.if you can
control the mind, the body will follow. Every step I made I tried to make
the pain feel good, made me look around at where I was, the people I was
meeting, the food, culture, architecture.everything. A long day, but
surprisingly I felt good (besides the feet of course). We stayed local as
always and bought some freshly killed beef at a village (Chuki) on the way
to another homestay. We’ve lost guys now, so we had to send some supplies
back to Kathmandu. The owner of this house was so happy to have us as guests
he whipped out some roxy, which is home-made liquor. I had to taste it due
to the fact that I was a guest, but only took 2 sips. Meanwhile, he got
slammed and passed out on my yellow NF bag. He too had lived in his house
his whole life, as well as his father’s family, and grandfather’s…catching
a rhythm here? Had some corn and soup from the family garden.

Wired data

Steps taken: 56.131

Hours: 10:16

Miles: 26.12

Gain/Loss Elevation: 10,214

HR l/m: 52/122





DAY 6 — 27 August: Madi to Sabkhola

Congrats to the Sabkhola pitstop..you now rank #1 in the “worst stay of my
life at a guesthouse” category. Pictures can’t put it into words. It was
pouring rain when I arrived, I’d been trekking non-stop all day, my shoes
are soaked, it’s pitch black going downhill and then..the real hell begins,
although I’m so tired and pissed off I don’t even care. I’m getting munched
on by mosquitoes while I write in my journal, I don’t dare touch any on the
bedspreads, and dinner has uninvited guests with swarms of flies, while a
man sleeps on the floor with his 2 babies, both uncovered and being hounded
by flies. Besides that, Sunkhasaba District kicked my butt, and the goal for
the day was not met. I was supposed to reach Tumlingtar, however due to
night and the fact that once again local time and suggested routes went
afray, as well as the pull rope taxi was closed, I was forced to spend the
night in hell. More determined now than ever to get back on track. One
bright spot.the Rai tribe was celebrating it’s Tiger festival in Chunpur,
which was where I stopped for lunch.

Wired data

Steps taken: 67,798

Hours: 10:45

Miles: 30.28

Gain/Loss Elevation: 14,201

HR l/m: 49/131





DAY 7 — 28 August: Sabkhola to Chalise

This morning I was on the warpath. I hate not meeting goals, and yesterday
was something I did not want to happen again. I woke up early and packed my
bags for the porters so they could get to the water taxi on the first ride -
7am. I wrapped my feet in bandages (I’ve counted 9 blisters so far) and got
moving. The taxi was fun, on a wooden boat with water coming through the
floorboards, being lead adrift for about a minute, and slowly being pulled
ashore by 3 guys drinking milk tea in one hand and pulling with the other.
Well, at least we got to the other side, finally. I have one huge advantage
with me now.there are now ‘official’ trekking maps you can get in Kathmandu
of the various districts from here on out, so now I can go off for extended
periods of time and just ask the locals using my maps where the next town
is, and the route in case I get lost. The sidar and I had a few brief heated
arguments.one- he wanted to stop me in a town that was not close to the goal
of the day because his feet hurt.everyone’s feet hurts, so I pushed to
Chalise, which is beyond the goal set. How I’m ahead of the game. I blocked
all the pain of the soaked feet, the climbing, the feeling of being dropped
in a big bathtub of sweat.gritted my teeth, and went to work.and enjoyed
every bead of sweat of it. When I arrived in Chalise, I was a full hour
ahead of the crew.my clothes
drenched, I knew that today was a special day.
Why? My body is getting used to the work, and the training I hope will pay
off in the later stages. We’ll see, the Himalaya and GHT have much wisdom
and lessons to bestow. Dinner local fare: chicken killed-on site by a
porter, and homemade pumpkin soup picked from the garden. How I do look
forward to the meals.

Wired data

Steps taken: 45,151

Hours: 8:03

Miles: 21.60

Gain/Loss Elevation: 8,634

HR l/m: 51/138






DAY 8 — 29 August: Chalise to Phedi

I left today determined to stay ahead of schedule because in 60 days, a lot
can go wrong. Walking along a ridge came a huge clan of langur monkeys. They
are white with brown noses and very distinct features. They were flying and
by the time I could get my camera out they were jumping from tree to tree
and blended right back into their environment. I did manage to get a few
photos of a monkeys but nothing as spectacular as the langur. I was so
dehydrated from yesterday’s outing I downed 3 liters of water, but still
felt parched. It’s very hot here in this region of the Himalaya and the
obstacles are a plenty. Passed by the Tsaru people who’s homes contain very
unique Architecture specific to their culture and region. Entered Maoist
territory for the first time. These are Maoists who believe in their cause
and want to make sure you know.the area I passed had a red flag flying (it’s
in the lower right-hand side of the photo). Counted over 30 mosquito bites
on my hands and over 40 on my ankles. Arrived in Phedi at around 5pm feeling
like I had taken a stroll for the day.be it a very humid, boot soaking, and
extremely sweaty outing, but my body is feeling strong. Phedi used to be a
popular stop off for trekkers years ago. The guesthouse where we stayed was
plenty busy. Now, we’re it’s only customers in months. Why? Maoists have
been scaring tourists away from this region the past years. This is a major
reason why I’m crossing the country.to show tourists around the world Nepal’s
diversity, cultures, architecture, tribes, and that it’s all a safe and
beautiful country to explore.

The best thing about the long days is you can never zone off. You have to be
focused every single second of the day because there are so many obstacles
to overcome. I don’t listen to music, don’t worry about the rise and fall of
western civilization, just think about the GHT. There are rivers to pass,
slippery rocks a plenty to maneuver, steep ridges, muddy lanes..all can
cause harm if you do not pay attention, if your mind is not in the game.

Wired data

Steps taken: 42,379

Hours: 10:37

Miles: 20.19

Gain/Loss Elevation: 8,010

HR l/m: 46/128





DAY 9 — 30 August: Phedi to Gudel

Long day of climbing, pushing upward over the Salpa Bhanjyang and onto
Gudel. Arrived into the village tired, hungry, and once again descending the
mountainside in pitch black due to the late hour. Leaves it tough to
maneuver the rocks and steep incline/decline 40+. The inclines have become
quite enjoyable, however, I have to wait a lot for logistics to gather
steam. This is one frustrating aspect. I have to climb and trek as well as
constantly organize the logistics daily with the sidar. The schedule drawn
up has been changing, and always trying to push on as far as possible each
day extending the evening endpoint. I slipped and fell on slippery rocks
today twice during the rain. I let my mind wander for brief seconds, and
paid the price. Once again, focus and concentration are critical, and must
be maintained daily all the time. It has become frustrating sometimes to
always eat alone, or drink water alone at a reststop. No one speaks English
in the areas I’ve been so far, so I just sit there quietly , smile, while
people stare at me. Jeroen at the Nepal Trust just organized 3 new porters
who are ready to roll..be good to get new blood in on the fun. Entered the
Solo Khumbu district today (5 total so far I’ve been in). This evening’s
fare had popcorn (corn on the cob), soup, chicken momo from freshly killed
rooster minutes beforehand by the neck once again from a porter (for the
school kids following – that means the chicken is being put to sleep
nicely), veg curry made from the garden, and banana. Thanks much to
USSecurenet for allowing me to relay these dispatches – they are keeping me

Wired data

Steps taken: 57,229

Hours: 12:50

Miles: 27.12

Gain/Loss Elevation: 15,293

HR l/m: 45/132





DAY 10 — 31 August: Gudel to Budhidanda

Here’s some slang for the day to digest – “Crazy path” – an insane steep as
can be downhill with slippery rocks, rain, that bash your feet and destroy
your knees.

Arrived late in the evening with blood feet from the rock pounding and
leeches.my feet have never looked better! People always ask what I eat on an
expedition. Answer – whatever I can get my hands on. I must intake at least
6,000 calories a day or I’ll lose weight and strength. I have 2 huge meals a
day (morning and night), and then snack on AG and Ka! while I’m trekking
throughout the day. In Sotang Bazaar for lunch I met some pleasant children
from the Chattri tribe.

Wired data

Steps taken: 56,011

Hours: 12:55

Miles: 26.54

Gain/Loss Elevation: 8,234

HR l/m: 44/134





DAY 11 — 1 September: Budhidanda to Phaplu

Well, I knew it was only a matter of time. – bacterial intestinal problems
dropped it’s ugly head this morning. I try the best I can enforcing the
‘wash hands’ law, but there is only so much one can do. I’m eating local the
entire way (besides AG and Ka!), so there’s bound to be some parasites that
are going to get through. I’m in the Solo Khumbu region, which is home to
the world’s strongest porters. They come from this district only. They start
learning from an early age – 3 years old, from their parents by ‘carrying’
around the house grass for the cattle, wood for fires, etc. As they grow
older, they begin to carry more kg and more kg. The minimum amount a porter
must carry is around 60lbs. But almost all of them carry double so they can
get paid more. My Sherpa porters are carrying between 35-45lbs, so they can
travel fast and light. There is an actual tier system with trekking porters
that has 10 classes. I’ll save the list for later. Today was a “rest day”
and got into Phaplu semi-steady since the route didn’t have too many ‘crazy
paths’. At the guesthouse there is electricity. Sweet! Still have yet to see
a single westerner since starting at the border. Passed by 3 Buddhist
monasteries and met some new friends.

Wired data

Steps taken: 43,852

Hours: 9:23

Miles: 20.78

Gain/Loss Elevation: 7,336

HR l/m: 41/123





DAY 12 — 2 September: Phaplu to Kinja

Those leeches love me, and I’m not flattered. Another full day of heavy rain
that started almost immediately after breakfast. ‘Crazy path’ for 3.5 hours
in the rain didn’t help things either for an afternoon delight. There is a
change.although I don’t like downhills, I’ve come to accept them. You accept
the things that are, and change the things you can. Since I’m not listening
to any music there is ample time to be in the moment, be completely present
with where I am at that time. I listen to the waterfalls, the rain splatter
on my hat, the rivers rushing over the rocks, the dialogue of passing
Nepalese, the birds chirping to one another. These expeditions make me feel
like a completely different person than when I’m back in the states. I feel
like a ‘living’ human being, one who is learning, accepting, opening my eyes
to the real world.

Saw in the distance the Thuchuncheli Monestary in Junbesi (over one thousand
years old), and took a picture with school children of the Tami tribe on
their walk to school right after I finished breakfast in Tumbuk. I wish I
could play the tourist and just stop and spend the day in an area, but I’m
on a schedule, and I have a goal.one that I think about every moment, of
every second, since I started running West from the Nepal/India border.

Wired data

Steps taken: 61,250

Hours: 12:25

Miles: 28.76

Gain/Loss Elevation: 11,762

HR l/m: 41/128





DAY 13 — 3 September: Kinja to Jiri

I’m beginning to experience sharp stomach pains which lasted throughout the
day. It felt as if a Nepal gorka knife was repeatedly stabbing me in the
stomach and showing me no mercy. Each down climb step on ‘crazy paths’ were
a punch to the navel. I can’t believe I reached my goal for the day – Jiri.
Passed over from Solo into Ramechhap district.

Dirty is when you can’t tell your sock is inside or out. Dirty is
when your
gray clothes have turned shades of green and brown and when you wake up in
the morning, for some reason you have cut your hand and there is blood all
over the bed. Dirty is putting back on the same smelly, grimy, drenched,
sodden, blood-soaked, nauseating, clothes and boots everyday and not really
giving two shakes and a Nepali about it because you’re going to trash your
body on the trail this day again anyway. No reason to put on new clothes
because they will be thrashed by the end of the day, and then I’m out two
sets. Only have 3 sets for the entire expedition.it’s usually enough. Not
anymore. It’s gotten so bad I actually don’t mind when a few of the porters
smoke near me.that smell is better than wet stank. I should have bought
stock in baby powder before I left the states, it’s my fresh maven.

Wired data

Steps taken: 60,952

Hours: 13:16

Miles: 28.88

Gain/Loss Elevation: 9,114

HR l/m: 46/149




DAY 14 — 4 September: Jiri to Busti

Full-blown fever. I literally could not breathe. I had to take very shallow
breaths in order to walk.no running please, I wanted to crawl. My breaths
sounded as if I was a woman ready to have a baby. I’d never experienced this
type of pain before. I was having a heart attack, I couldn’t believe it. At
around 11am, the fever started to kick in. During a late breakfast my sidar
showed mercy on me and was able to wrangle someone in a small hut to let me
pass out on their bed. I tried to throw in a few pitiful spoonfuls of
porridge but that wasn’t flying. I managed to get in my stomach an AG energy
bar and liter of Ka! Met some kids who showed me how to race their home-made
go-karts which helped me forget the pain for about 5 minutes. I rallied for
a pain in the butt rain-filled down climb, but could barely make it to the
bottom of the mountain. That was it, I was dizzy, weaving back and forth,
and felt as if I don’t lay down soon, I’m going to fall off the edge. Quick
knock on a hut sitting all by itself near the river, and bam I’m in their ‘master
bedroom’ passed out. Only one solution to take care of this and come to the
rescue – Cipro. It was a lesson in sufferfest. Just before passing out I
heard the sweet words – Sir, there may be a red mouse that come visit you
during the night.

Wired data

Steps taken: 49,014

Hours: 10:26

Miles: 24.33

Gain/Loss Elevation: 8,365

HR l/m: 63/151




DAY 15 — 5 September: Busti to Pheda

Everyday I’m awakened by nature’s alarm clock – the rooster. Today was no
different. We don’t need no stinkin watch here in Nepal, the rooster will
let you know when to wake up. Perfect timing.everyday at 5:15am. Still can’t
breathe too well, but I feel Cipro has kicked in. The fever broke – I’m
ready to roll. Breakfast in Kiratichhop.took a long-forgotten ancestor path
to get there. Most people use the road to travel by bus, so the pass
connecting Busti to Kiratichhop hasn’t been used much in the past 35 years
until today. After lunch I praised the Cipro gods and the person who created
it. It brought me back from death in 36 hours. And as if to show mercy,
mother nature did not provide us with rain today.all day! A first so far. I
landed in Pheda close to 7pm, and the townspeople came out to greet this
most thankful, near-back-to-health guest.

Wired data

Steps taken: 50,409

Hours: 12:02

Miles: 23.89

Gain/Loss Elevation: 11,659

HR l/m: 51/122




Day 16 — 6 September: Pheda to Balephi

After leaving our guests, the Magar tribe in Pheda, we hired 3 locals at
various points to get to Khadichaur, so as not to waste any precious time.
Received bad news that 35 people died this morning on the road to Tingre, a
border town just across in China, where I stayed on my expedition to
Shishapangma. Unfortunately this type of news is quite common here. We pass
at least 5 to 6 landslides a day. Found 8 leeches sucking my blood at
breakfast. You really don’t even feel them until they’ve taken a pint out of
you. Every town we’ve stopped so far, Nepalis always ask 3 things – what’s
my name, where am I from, and where am I going. No one believes me when I
say Tibet, so I just started making stuff up. Most the time I don’t think
they know what I’m saying anyway..no one speaks English in these villages.
99% of the Nepalese I’ve met have never been within a few days walk of their
hut or village. They all seem content and happy though, and most provide a
smile. A few times in the sketcher areas they seem to be curious for all the
wrong reasons. The sidar never tells anyone exactly where I’m going because
he says it’s too dangerous in some of the very remote areas. Biggest
highlight – bought a bed sheet in the town we’re staying at this
evening.hopefully will keep away some of the mosquitoes from biting the
heavens out of me. Had some monkeys cross our path the other day – does that
mean good luck?

Wired data

Steps taken: 56,893

Hours: 12:09

Miles: 31.32

Gain/Loss Elevation: 10,002

HR l/m: 38/136





DAY 17 — 7 September: Balephi to Melamchi

Good morning, I’ll have my usual 5,000ft of climbing before breakfast
please. As the photo shows, the road aint pretty on you. Does get the heart
pumpin though.earn your meal is what’s the rule. Back to feeling close to
100% besides the usual aches and pains. As usual, we had some locals who
like to join in on the trek. Happens everyday.they just sidesaddle right
behind you and before you know it, there are anywhere from 2 to 15 people
following you.kids, teenagers, men, women, it doesn’t matter. I feel like
Forrest Gump on his run across America. The kids are the most interesting.
They get as close as they can to you, and just stare. I had about 10 kids
walk over 8km with me today. They kept repeating the same ol questions you
already know about. Not everyone is so cheery as mentioned.passed a town of
drunks at 3:00pm, and 4 guys started following me for about 2
miles..sometimes they come up to you and try and get close, but usually
never grab. Arrived in Melamchi where a fight had broken out right in the
middle of town. Some man with no leg started to yell at the sidar if he was
willing to be the next fighter. A swell bunch of chaps they were, yes sir.

Wired data

Steps taken: 62,002

Hours: 14:07

Miles: 29.38

Gain/Loss Elevation: 9,811

HR l/m: 38/128




DAY 18 — 8 September: Melamchi to Chisapani

Lost another porter due to severe cuts on a foot and a high fever.he’s on
his way back in Kathmandu for treatment. Tomorrow evening switch out, 2 new
porters arrive – new blood, infuse some energy, travel faster for some of
the stages when needed.

To have or have not of local guides, this is the question. Yes, they have
helped, but also have caused delays and extensions.this day in point, they
hindered once again. We’ve come to find out older Nepalese do not speak
their current language very well…they speak ‘old school’ Nepalese. Which
is fine and dandy to me, unless of course it takes an hour off course which
it did today. Never backtracked, just took a longer route to get to a town
called Majuwa. When I say ‘town’, I use the word lightly.we’re talking 7 to
8 huts together. Today I hit landslide alley. I trekked through, no joke,
over 35 landslides. The mountain chain link in this series was so steep, it
can never hold water from the monsoon. You want to move fast through the
chain, but a misstep within the landslide area could mean disaster.it’s fine
line. A lizard visited me in my room this evening.very nice to meet you.

Wired data

Steps taken: 47,460

Hours: 11:35

Miles: 22.49

Gain/Loss Elevation: 10,430

HR l/m: 39/131




DAY 19 — 9 September Chisapani to Kakani

I hate leeches, I truly hate them. It was hell today in Shivapuri National
Park going old routes in order to reach the goal of Kakani. They’re blood
sucking is really starting to piss me off. I am Northwest of Kathmandu now
for the first time ever. I flew East to the India border 20 days ago.it
seems like an eternity.

Ate breakfast at a Baba’s hut, which is a person who chooses a life of
religious ‘self-peace’ who decides to live alone for the remainder of his
entire life. He lives within Bagmati, near the middle of the park..he moves
softly, sits often, and seems to gaze out in the distance as if in deep
thought. I watched him for awhile, and the Baba had a stroll to him that
gave off the aura of not a care in the world, just the present time at
hand.Would he remain in deep thought if leeches were all over him? I know it’s
tested my self-peace and I’ve failed miserably.

Wired data

Steps taken: 55,084


Miles: 26.10

Gain/Loss Elevation: 7,201

HR l/m: 42/111




DAY 20 — 10 September: Kalani to Trishuli

Charged hard into Trishuli today to arrive early as possible. Jeroen of the
Nepal Trust was coming in so we could coordinate logistics for the remainder
of the expedition. There are more problems arising within the logistics
company – in need of changing out porters, cooks, guides, mules, and other
areas for the remoter regions out West. It was in the 90′s today in the sun
with the altitude beating down on me.I was lovin every second of it. No
rain. After yesterday’s battle and lost to the leeches I was so glad to be
sweating in the sun. Either I’m getting used to heat or just hate the rain.
I think we know the answer to that question.

Had breakfast in Ranipauwa after the morning run. Helped the owner’s son of
the hut where I ate fix his rubix cube, and he showed me a dice game he drew
himself. Reminded me of my boy and how he loves creativity.miss him so very

My goal with Jeroen coming in – make sure logistics runs as smooth as
possible to the Tibet border. There is still a long way to go. As I’ve
already experienced, so much can, and will go wrong. Inner conflicts between
porters, sidar, me, things being said and misinterpreted. This bad energy
does not help, and could easily hamper the goal. Politics, work, and
money.it’s everywhere, even in little ol’ Nepal.

Wired data

Steps taken: 42,895

Hours: 9:40

Miles: 22.85

Gain/Loss Elevation: 7,462

HR l/m: 41/116




DAY 21 — 11 September: Trishuli to Katunje

A somber day in remembrance of 9/11. I thought about that day a lot
throughout the run and trek. Why hatred is such a powerful emotion, and what
it drives people to do. The majority of Nepalese love Americans, so it’s
nice to feel the positive energy. Our contributions, as well as other
western countries that have assisted the Nepalese are prevalent in many of
the bigger towns I pass. My goal is to help those smaller villages in Nepal
through this project. Made friends with the meat guys in town before I took
off in the morning. Imagine sitting down all day, meat all around
you.sanitized of course, and then chopping up whatever customers want. They
seemed like jolly fellows, and took everything in good fun. The photo tells
it all.

We are in the midst of discussing and collaborating with the the Nepal Govt.
and Board of Tourism to establish a definitive GHT. There are many
off-shoots in the Himalaya, but nothing that can place a trail like we’re
doing from border to border. Hoping for the fastest crossing of Nepal as

My stop for the evening in Katunje involved some unwelcome guests in my
room – a goat, and then a chicken. The chicken had the right idea – out on
the porch (where my bed was), in a corner, staying low, being still and
quiet. The stay was definitely a top 5, but I don’t even care anymore – too
tired. Please, just provide a bed, some air, food, water, and I’m good to

Wired data

Steps taken: 54,833

Hours: 13:07

Miles: 26.19

Gain/Loss Elevation: 9,871

HR l/m: 43/128




DAY 22 — 12 September: Katunje to Arkhet

Looking at the sun complex.you know it’s not good for your eyes, but you
just can’t help yourself. Same thing with the GHT downclimbs.you must focus
ALL the time (thank god for Ka!), but you want to look over the edge at the
abyss below. You know that spells disaster, but can’t help yourself. I must
stop, quickly glance, and then off I go again. Everything seems to fly by so

Went from Dodi to Gorkha district today. In Khahare for breakfast got a
chance to do an impromptu jam session with some kids. I was pulling some
Love Hope Strength power with a Nepalese Madal and banged some beats out.
Saw very briefly homemade Roxy being brewed.right along the trail. The
Mugeling caste (lower caste) usually are the ones who homebrew.

Arrived in Arkhet at a good click. The porters bought new shoes for some
upcoming high altitude fun.can’t wait. Another intense river crossing – had
about 15-20 so far. They’re getting to be fun, as long as one is smart about
crossing a rapid river.

I can tell I’m really getting used to Nepal life and going local. The last
town for the evening, as I come in, I always check to see which rooster is
the largest, so I can point it out to Lakpa Sherpa, my cook, to roast it up
for dinner.

Wired data

Steps taken: 50,590

Hours: 12:04

Miles: 24.97

Gain/Loss Elevation: 6,431

HR l/m: 43/126




DAY 23 — 13 September: Arkhet to Tatopani

Another hot day on the Budhi NadI. The method behind the GHT record goal.- I
try to take what is considered 3 regular ‘strenuous’ trekking days and
complete them in 1 day. The 3:1 ratio. This is the only way possible to have
the chance to take 4 seasons (2 years) worth of trekking expeditions and
complete at one time. That’s the goal – and no days off. Had breakfast in
Armala. The small villages passed contain the Guruing Tribes. Arrived in
Tatopani – which is a hot springs area – no baths, just the tap. Extremely
dirty. I saw the largest spider ever in my room.his green eyes lit up the
night when the headlamp hit it. A family of rats kept me up most of the
night, making sounds, and scampering around on the floor. Conditions could
be better, but I trek/run so late in the evening it’s easiest to just drop
in open a guesthouse and crash, no matter how disgusting it is.

Wired data

Steps taken: 52,445

Hours: 11:14

Miles: 24.85

Gain/Loss Elevation: 4,267

HR l/m: 41/128




DAY 24 — 14 September: Tatopani to Pewa

The porters and sidar had a ‘Roxy’ party last night (homemade spirits). I
did not partake. Good to see them unwind a bit, we’re going high starting
tomorrow. My body is collapsing at various points, mostly at high noon. The
mental focus is critical for maintaining a steady rhythm and power. Ka! is
becoming a key asset. I’ve begun to consume it straight powder.no water
necessary, as well as sprinkling it on my cereal. Damn good!

The insane food consumption continues at dinner: 5 ears of corn, pound of
pasta, bowl of mystery meat w/ sauce, plate of sautéed pumpkin, bowl of
green spinach, pan of pumpkin soup..all local. I’m eating like a madman
possessed. I’ll show you photographs.the ultimate weight-loss program.
Biggest Loser does not hold a plate of chicken to this program.

BTW: you can buy an ear of corn for 1Rp here in the local arena. That’s 80
ears of corn for $1 U.S.

Wired data

Steps taken: 54,6907

Hours: 12:39

Miles: 26.52

Gain/Loss Elevation: 7,622

HR l/m: 44/124




DAY 25— 15 September: Pewa to Lihi

Thanks to National Geographic for the live interview. Managed to run in to
Lihi ahead of schedule and set up the BGAN terminal and phone in the fog and
rain within a blaze area. The areas within Manaslu Nat. Park for very
primitive shelters for staying.camp sites are terrific, but if you’re trying
to maximize time, eat, and sleep, and deal with the rain – a roof over your
head, whatever it may be works best. How this is unlike normal treks -
staying in local shelters, porters are switched out on a consistent basis -
they can go for 12 hour+ days, no leisure or ‘relax’ time, 2-5 minute stops
are my maximum rest period when running/trekking. The goal at the end of the
day is to reach the next stopping point injury free, for me and the team.

Interview with NGS provided by Ka! Superfood and USSecurenet.

Wired data

Steps taken: 47,986

Hours: 10:52

Miles: 22.24

Gain/Loss Elevation: 10,211

HR l/m: 46/130





DAY 26 — 16 September: Lihi to Samdo

Climbing higher towards Manaslu, which is the 8th highest peak in the world
(8163m). Had breakfast in Syatagaoh. Very dirty area..most people there are
from Tibet, lower caste, and herders. It seems the higher I go, the dirtier
it gets, less places to crash, and those that are guesthouses are extremely
dirty and not well-taken care of. Bottom line is the owners don’t care, they
know there is limited areas to stay, and they want the almighty $$$$. Very
muddy most of the journey today, I was slipping at every turn.

The most comments I’ve gotten called out for according to the sidar is the
fact that I eat chiles non-stop and eat them with all my food. Forget trying
to establish something for the Nepal people, look at this red-head eat
chiles. Glad I can make their conversation more interesting around the fire.

Wired data

Steps taken: 44,703

Hours: 10:04

Miles: 21.18

Gain/Loss Elevation:

HR l/m: 43/141




DAY 27 — 17 September: Samdo to Bimthang

6 days without a dispatch due to mountains surrounding me leaving no signal
(I hope). Starting to freak that equipment has gone hair-wire. We did climb
together as a group over Larke Pass around Manaslu. Had Chapa this early
morning (barley, milk, little sugar). Sherpas eat this everyday for
breakfast. Thought Chapa would provide me with superpowers.works for
Sherpas. In the end I stuck to my routine to get me out of hypoxia – AG and
Ka!. Weather was cloudy, cold, misty, then freezing rain, then snow. All
ideal conditions except no views! First time oxygen dep hit me – was feeling
hypoxic near the pass, was going hard. Checked my oxygen saturation and it
was 82% with HR of 102. Checked Lapka Sherpa and his was 83% and HR of 107.
Long day of climbing and descending.the usual. Passed into the Manang
district. Felt like I am getting sick again.going to hit the Cipro tonight
for sure

Wired data

Steps taken: 54,439

Hours: 10:10

Miles: 26.08

Gain/Loss Elevation: 14,114

HR l/m: 51/140




DAY 28 — 18 September: Bimthang to Bagarchhap

Well, I was right..woke up this morning at 5:30am crying at death’s door.
Puked all last night, out both ends, while raining outside..oh, the fun
never ceases. BGAN terminal still not pulling a signal. Hope the problem can
be fixed. By 10am I felt like death’s cousin, so decided just to get moving.
Arrived in Bagarchhap a mess, but glad to be alive. The cook and a porter
have not arrived yet, and it’s pass 10pm. This is not good..worried that
they may have gotten caught in one of the landslides we passed. Rain
continues. Every type of situation, everything and anything you could
possibly think of, has happened..and there is still so much more to come.
Onto the Annapurna region next. Praying to the Ra the Sun God to appear.

Wired data

Steps taken: 44,659

Hours: 8:18

Miles: 21.16

Gain/Loss Elevation: 6,295

HR l/m: 44/126




DAY 29 — 19 September: Bagarchhap to Pisang

The cook and porter turned up this morning. Apparently they got slammed from
drinking Roxy with a local from Bhimtang, and then the porter proceeded to
start dropping supplies, equipment, etc on the way down the high valley.
They made it to Dharapani at 10pm. The one porter is being sent home
immediately and the cook was reprimanded by the sidar. Down one more. Now,
another porter is drastically ill, and looks to be headed home as well.
Seems like logistics is running on fumes. We are unable to change out
porters until after the Annapurna high pass, which should be day after
tomorrow. I must stay with the team somewhat because if I get too far ahead
like I did today arriving in Pisang 45 minutes ahead of the team, I freeze
my tail off due to the high altitude and breeze. I run with a backpack but I’d
forgotten to place an extra layer. At least I saw signs of the sun. Still
don’t feel very good, slight fever, and stomach not feeling great as well.
Tomorrow morning, CNN, and moving up to base camp near Annapurna.

Wired data

Steps taken: 45,088

Hours: 9:41

Miles: 22.36

Gain/Loss Elevation: 7,181

HR l/m: 48/131




DAY 30 – 20 September: Pisang to Yak Kharka

Woke up to a live interview with CNN.they will be interviewing me weekly
(Sunday 9pmEST) for the remainder of the expedition, and then do daily
coverage as I get closer to the Tibetan border. Thanks to Anna Coren, the
anchor, pleasure speaking with her. The only way I could get a signal was by
hanging over the 3rd floor balcony of a guesthouse for about 30 minutes.
Lost yet another porter to sickness, dropping out like low ambition
humanity. I still feel very weak, and on top of that, I pulled a muscle
running into Manang. I’m a disaster.the pain is shooting all the way down my
right leg. Tomorrow we have to go over the Thorung La Pass..straight up, and
then straight down. A sufferfest awaits.

Wired data

Steps taken: 42,267

Hours: 10.05

Miles: 20.03

Gain/Loss Elevation: 8,616

HR l/m: 49/127




DAY 31 — 21 September: Yak Kharka to Muktinath

Woke up a mess.the one thing, I hadn’t done anything yet in the day. I couldbarely get out of bed last night my leg hurt so bad. No running today, morelike a slow walk straight up wincing like a lost soul with no idea how hewas going to make it to the goal town by going up and over the pass. Did itthough.goal was met, a very painful down climb. 2 new porters join the teamtomorrow.thankfully.Wired dataSteps taken: 51,101Hours: 12:31Miles: 24.21Gain/Loss Elevation: 12,341HR l/m: 51/14928.4895N83.5185E


DAY 32 — 22 September: Muktinath to Camp

I can’t seem to shake off this bug I have. Now in the lower Dolparegion -feels Tibetean plateau. Camping, got in late, dinner at 10pm, doesn’thelp body, too I’m running now half-speed, various ailments trying to bringme down. 2 new porters came in. I think the sidar had the wrong route.Wired dataSteps taken: 61,768Hours: 14:15Miles: 29.69Gain/Loss Elevation: 14,122HR l/m: 53/15328.5322N83.4147E


DAY 33 — 23 September: Camp to Camp

Yesterday, new porters all smiles, today one is limping, seriousness kickedin, welcome to the fold. #1 majority rule for porters – tell them somethingto do, you must – repeat it, repeat it, and then repeat again,everyday.sometimes that doesn’t work either. But damn, they can carry aload. I’m not smiling either, the terrain, altitude, wrong route, andsickness trifecta plus one is really punishing the body and mind.Wired dataSteps taken: 38,905Hours: 12:10Miles: 18.54Gain/Loss Elevation: 12,103HR l/m: 48/15128.5494N83.3654E


DAY 34 — 24 September: Camp to Camp

Body feels like it’s going through a meat grinder. Sickness not improvingwith the ‘cloud water’ to hydrate. I couldn’t see 1 inch into my waterbottle.love the close and gulp part. Heart skyrocketing, lead into upperDolpa, should not be here, will make us way behind schedule, committed now.Getting very remote. I’m slipping sliding, climbing losing my mind. Longday, desperate, completely exhausted, upset, aching, dizzy, we keep goinghigher, and there is not a damn thing I can do about it.Wired dataSteps taken: 45,990Hours: 14:21Miles: 21.79Gain/Loss Elevation: 15,074HR l/m: 66/16229.0145N83.2851E


DAY 35 — 25 September: Camp to Camp

Following 3 highlights from upper Dolpa region from today (all occurring ator above 16K) #1 1 full-on river crossing – shoes, socks off, pants jackedup, saying to yourself you will make it because you know there is no otheralternative with the icy freezing water. #2 Climb straight up (see pic) intoa mountain and for 100meters in complete darkness you climb up and then facein to the mountain and straight downclimb. #3 End of day, tired, crossing ariver that has a bridge – rocks placed b/w 2 wooden poles. About half-waythrough, 2 rocks implode, have flash-back of life, grab both sides of woodenpoles, pull yourself up, soaking wet from frigid water. Hypothermia beginsin about 10 minutes. End of day – what can happen, will happen on thisexpedition. Grateful to be alive. If you think any of this is BS, please Iwelcome you to come out and see for yourself.trust me.Wired dataSteps taken: 60,377Hours: 14:56Miles: 28.61Gain/Loss Elevation: 15,062HR l/m: 54/15729.0180N83.2062E


DAY 36 — 26 September: Camp to Camp

Work ethic is instilled at an early age – 3 children (ages 6,9,10) herdingover 800 goats along high plains of Dolpa region. Khumbu cough continues;lower back is jacked – A.S. take note mi amigo; losing my taste buds, losingmy appetite; your life on the GHT can be values in seconds; crossed about 15rivers (usual)had about 30 “around the next bend”, every day, every moment,what is going to be at the top of the hill, around the bend, down in the gutof a mountain? It’s waiting for me.Wired dataSteps taken:59,664Hours: 14:08Miles: 28.27Gain/Loss Elevation: 14,719HR l/m: 58/15128.5205N83.1849E


DAY 37 — 27 September:
Camp to Camp

We are finally back on the original GHT itinerary, finally. Worn ragged.Unable to do interview with CNN because of remote location. GBAN out oforder due to locations- 5 days now. Every step still has it’s “if youmisstep you die” feeling that comes with it.but at least that step is onestep closer to the Western Nepal border.Wired dataSteps taken: 58,239Hours: 14:07Miles: 27.23Gain/Loss Elevation: 13.005HR l/m: 49


DAY 38 — 28 September: Camp to Dunai

Made to the goal destination ahead of schedule. It was for the most partuneventful, except for the usual beautiful views, wacky tobacco on the sideof the trail and loads of plants in the fields, ‘high’ old Nepalese withtheir shirts off smoking, old women yelling at us for looking at the ‘wacky’fields, and the ‘cop check-in’ stop right within the ‘wacky’ fields, withnot a care in his eye, river crossings, bright sun, the usual slips andslides.that kind of day. Able to do some food shopping for the next few dayswhich sends me back into some remote areas. Still surrounded by high peaks,impossible to get a signal on the BGAN.Wired dataSteps taken: 53,334Hours: 10:56Miles: 26.27Gain/Loss Elevation: 7,866HR l/m: 48/13428.5704N82.5373E


DAY 39 — 29 September: Dunai to Camp

New record for a porter leaving the expedition. He lasted a total of 3hours! We got into breakfast stop, I get busy with dispatches with the BGANpumping out a signal, and after an hour.I come to find he just disappearedlike a fart in the wind. Vanished. It took another hour to find areplacement just to get to Jumla. The guy was hurting at the end of the day.Stopped around 7pm..he’s laid out on the ground wheezing. Felt goodtoday..Metallica kept ringing in the ears – “Back to the Front”. Anotherfirst.placed tent on the roof a hut this evening. Can’t get much more flatthan that.Wired dataSteps taken: 52,397Hours: 10:55Miles: 25.03Gain/Loss Eevation: 7,123HR l/m: 47/12729.0445N82.4140E


DAY 40 — 30 September: Camp to Chaurikot Camp

A day full of unexpected surprises and death-defying acts of trekking on theGHT? Nope, and I’ll take it!! We’re going too slow for my taste.stillfooling with logistics and porters. I said from the beginning – logisticsrunning smoothly will be the key.it still is. Best part of today – the viewthis evening from my tent.incredible. Must save to show because my cardreader is on the fritz.Wired dataSteps taken: 49,1111Hours: 10:47Miles: 23.27Gain/Loss Elevation:6,461HR l/m: 48/12429.0776N82.3114E


DAY 41 — 01 October: Chaurikot Camp to Camp

Even with over 33miles of running/climbing unfortunately the goal ofreaching Jumla was not met. A half/hour in the dark negotiating the GHTalways makes me want to call it a night. Passed over from Dolpa into Jumladistrict today.that’s the 16th I’ve been in. The cook assistant porteraccidentally burned my feet with boiling water fresh from the burner.addburnt flesh to the list now.Wired dataSteps taken:69,711Hours: 13:49Miles: 33.03Gain/Loss Elevation:9,491HR l/m: 49/12629.1545N82.1487


DAY 42 — 02 October: Camp to Nelukhaka Camp

Got a new porter and rid of another porter. Finding myself on forever Nepalitime..wait, run, trek, wait, etc. Have diarrhea, what else is new. Went upand over Dapha Lagna.felt really good, the hard uphill my heart enjoyed thepounding. Slaughtered a goat.I called him ‘Fred’. One minute he’s panting,the next minute a porter is holding his head. A few hours from standing tomy tent for dinner.now that’s fresh! The big news, is that someone/s brokeinto my tent and stole four small bags.most importantly my personal journal.They stole it while I was watching the goat slaughter. I was shakin I was sopissed.everything else meant nothing compared to the journal. After 3 hoursof random house buggin and such, 2 of our porters found the contents 100yards back from tent in the bushes. All and all I am eternally grateful tothe 2 porters, but really pissed about people trying to steal. At the end ofthe night, around 10:30pm, I was in my tent with a mouthful of goat, smilingfrom ear to ear, happy to have my possessions back safely.goat had nevertasted so good. Thanks Fred for sacrificing for the team!Wired dataSteps taken:42,640Hours: 10:56Miles: 20.36Gain/Loss Elevation:7,497HR l/m: 48/12729.2381N82.0854E


DAY43 — 03 October: Nelukhaka Camp to Kala Patal Camp

Found the best way to wake up..Any type of black tea (I’ve had 8 diff. sofar) and a scope of Ka! Superfood. I swear by it everyday now.insanelygood.perfect for a 7-10 trek/run before breakfast! Picked and ate 2 applesfrom a tree in Chautha.reminded me of home. Had lunch in a marijuana field.For those who toke, the perfect trekking expedition awaits you in Jumla. Raninto Mugu District (#17 so far), and also into Rara National Park. Builttent platform on a ledge this evening..terrific views! Feeling great on theuphills and crazy path downhills.the border is getting closerWired dataSteps taken:46,291Hours: 11:26Miles:21.94Gain/Loss Elevation:9,927HR l/m: 50/12129.3078N82.0965E


DAY 44 — 04 October: Kala Patal Camp to Near Chekheli Pass Camp

Thanks to CNNI for the ‘live’ video interview we did through USSecurenet. Itwill be shown on primetime internationally and state side evening/morning aswell as online. As each day I get closer to the border I want to go faster,climb harder, run more miles. The goal has never been more clear in my mind.Stay focused, persevere, and everything within the adventure will workitself out. Every muscle in my legs are sore, overused,overcompensated.block out the pain and let only the light get through.Wired dataSteps taken:48,488Hours: 13:12Miles: 23.03Gain/Loss Elevation:10,239HR l/m: 48/11829.3788N82.0717E


DAY 45 — 05 October: Chekheli Pass Camp to Near Sakithad Camp

Passed over into Humla District from Mugu..this is the 18th, and finaldistrict for me. I’ve been trying to take advantage of the nice weather andpull a lot of miles.it’s paying off. Slowly each day I’ve been gaining somehours and miles. My new goal – 49/50 days to the border. Hit some veryinsane landslides that were definite on 2 of them, no room, and I reallymean no room for error (check video). Pushing hard to reach Simikot tomorrowevening – district HQ. The goal of 49/50 is all I think about.need tomentally have a very clear mind, extend the body over pain and the meatgrinder that it goes through.Wired dataSteps taken:62,455Hours: 13:05Miles: 29.59Gain/Loss Elevation:12,671HR l/m: 42/13529.4582N81.5957E


DAY 46 — 07 October: Near Sakithad Camp to Simikot

Begun doubling my dose of Ka! to raise my oxygen cells. Need this pushingtoward border and altitude rises. Today was longest in Himalaya so far..mynew goal has pushed me to extend boundaries of what I think I’m capableof.this is why I’m here. Tonight going straight uphill to Simikot.dizziness,flashbacks, tripping over self. This is here you truly learn who you areinside, what you’re made of in the core. My hands are completely scarred, mybody has been pulverized, my mind is fried.let’s see if I can grasp more outof me.I’ll need it to get to the border within 49 days.Wired dataSteps taken:84,697Hours: 16:02Miles: 41.14Gain/Loss Elevation:17,251HR l/m: 45/14929.5841N81.4910E


DAY 47 — 07 October: Simikot to Kermi Camp

After yesterday’s sufferfest, I knew today would be easier in comparison.Got only 4 hours sleep, so I was wasted anyway. All new crew for theborder – sidar, cook, 2 porters, 3 mules. .keeping’ it fresh and light inmanpower because I’m paranoid about something going wrong.although I’velearned through this journey, everything and anything can go wrong. Had toorganize equipment, food, tents, loads, etc.so got a late start. Once I gotin a rhythm I didn’t stop until I reached Kermi. Waited over 2.5 hours forthe rest of the group and mules with all the gear. Luckily, there was ateahouse so I sipped tea and watched a drunken man on Roxy make funny noisesand mimic Ladka from the show Taxi. Major reason stopped in Kermi was to seethe outpost and micro-hydro project Nepal Trust and Rotary Int. installed.Imagine one out of every 3 children you have will die before the age of 2.Fact of life here, but the outpost was built to change that. Micro-hydroprovides electricity for over 200 villagers for past 10 years. Damn goodstuff in a truly beautiful area.Wired
dataSteps taken:36,137Hours: 5:23Miles: 17.12Gain/Loss Elevation:8,446HR l/m: 44/13130.0291N81.4234E


DAY 48 — 08 October: Kermi Camp to Tumkot Camp

Mules are a problem.mule man went looking for them at 5:30am, didn’t returnuntil 9am..apparently mules were headed back to Simikot. Late start so triedto make up for it in speed. Did well, path is nice and clear.made good timeto Tumkot.must stop here – mules won’t go further. Passed by Yalbang wherebriefly spoke with Nepal Trust health workers and school teacher. NT est.outpost and child health education program. Look forward to spending moretime on way back from border and also visiting a very important Buddhistmonastery and hope to talk with a famous Rinpoche, Padmariksal.Tomorrow is a big day, one of the biggest in my ‘adventure’ life for sure.Must get over the climbing and high altitude to reach Hilsa Tibet borderbefore sunset.All the pain and experiences of this expedition I hope to usefor one very strong mental and physical pounding.Wired dataSteps taken:45,849Hours: 8:35Miles: 21.72Gain/Loss Elevation:9,202HR l/m: 41/13430.0472N81.3144E


DAY 49 — 09 October: Tumkot Camp to Hilsa (Tibet/Nepal Border)

49 DAYS, 6 HOURS, 8 MINUTES! EAST TO WEST ACROSS NEPAL COMPLETE! Previousworld record – 68 days by Rosie Swale Pope in 2003. Much more to come, staydialed in!Wired dataSteps taken:49,437Hours: 7:38Miles: 23.42Gain/Loss Elevation:14,005HR l/m: 39/13730.0919N81.1998E10 Oct – Hilsa, Nepal-Tibet BorderMy first rest day and late sleep-in in a long time. Damn nice! Spent the dayshooting video and photos at the border, relaxing, writing.generally justtaking a day off. Rough estimates – I ran/trekked over 1,250 miles, tookover 2.6 million steps, and over 500,000ft of climbing/descending.


11 October: Hilsa to Tumkot

Thanks to CNN for the continuing coverage and interview this morning re: theworld record. Will be shown primetime in the states and internationallytomorrow and video will be online.

Started back to Simikot. 3am this morning was awaken by a drunk man who waspounding on the outside gate to be let in. Next thing I hear is peoplefighting outside my door. Wanted to go out and start shooting some photos,but thought I’d hate to get stabbed or something even before returning toSimikot..so I went back to sleep. Talked to the sidar the next morning, andfound out they were speaking ‘Lama’, so he couldn’t understand much. No lawsout here at the border. The route back to Tumkot I took today is the ancienttrading route between Nepal and Tibet. For centuries they trade salt,timber, and supplies by using yak caravans. Tomorrow is Yalbang..reallyexcited about visiting the monastery and local school kids. It’s amazingwhat a day off will do for the body. Felt really good over the pass,skipping my way down to Tumkot.


12 October: Tumkot to Yalbang

Arrived into Yalbang at noon to meet the Rinpoche, Padma Riksal, a famousBuddhist spiritual leader at the monastery there. We were lead in to awaiting room where we were offered traditional Tibetan butter tea. Here wealso prepared the katta scarf folded in a special way containing a token ofappreciation (100rp) to present to the Rinpoche for our secluded meeting. Wewere then guided to his home were we offered him gifts and sat for over anhour long conversation on Buddhism and heritage preservation.all whilesipping milk tea. The Rinpoche complimented me on setting the world recordand for trying to help bring awareness to the remote, poorer regions ofNepal. We talked about Buddhist philosophy and also the education systemwithin Buddhism.and how to preserve the Buddhist culture for the localHimalayan communities and the world for future generations. Afterwards wereceived a guided tour around the monastery grounds and saw many sacredartifacts. An overall memorable afternoon and enlightening experience.one Iwill never forget.


13 October: Yalbang to Dharapori

School kids from the area villages came by in the morning to show us the’Little Doctors’ program started by the Nepal Trust. This was the fist yearfor health care child education in Yalbang. Children who once had noknowledge of health were now telling me they wanted to be doctors and healthworkers when they grew up.terrific to hear. Also, the children were takingwhat they learned in the program – hygiene, healthcare, diseases.and goinghome and teaching their parents about how to be more health conscious. Theprogram plans to continue there as long as donors keep contributing.Made it to Dharapori in a few hours and while waiting for the team to arrivewas attacked by children from the village. They are a lot more forceful herethan in other areas and have no problem yelling at you to give themsomething. I just kept repeating what they said to me, which seemed to work,because after about 10 minutes, they left me alone to catch up ondaydreaming and enjoy the beautiful views.?


14 October: Dharapori to Simikot

Arrived back in Simikot town to a man beating drums with a boy bangingcymbals as a welcome congrats.right on the edge of town…we walked throughtown to the Nepal Trust guesthouse. The women’s group of Humla were waitingat the guesthouse, and congratulated me with kattas, flower necklaces, andtikka. The District Development Committee of Humla (local government) held apress conference later in the day..they gave me a certificate or recognitionfor the world record trek across Nepal and contributing to Humla’s touristdevelopment. The vote of thanks from the Chief District Officer, TourismDevelopment Coordinator, and local political parties was a very kind gestureand much appreciated..I hope to bring more tourists to their district andassist in any way possible. We celebrated tonight with local apple roxy,chang (homemade beer), vegetable momo, and freshly killed chicken.Tomorrow, a long travel day back to Kathmandu.


15 October: Simikot to Kathmandu

The latest CNN interview:

Left early in Simikot.Jeroen and I were the only 2 in the cargo prop plane.An interesting first.got toSurkhet, and had to take a bus for 3.5 hours to Nepalgunj. Got a room andchilled in the heat (we’re about 5 minutes from the border of India) waitingfor our flight out at 6pm. This is festival week so airline tickets are hardto come by. Got to watch any interesting fight with 2 drunk guys..and itwasn’t even noon yet. The ever brave police officer just stood and watched.Made it back to Kathmandu in the evening. Much work to do here.stay tuned.There are tourists everywhere since it’s high season. Hmm, when can I goback to the remote Himalaya.


16 October: Kathmandu

Bought some clean clothes to wear, took a shower, and now back online tostart answering emails. Lots to do.Govt press conference, BBC, Nat Geo thiscoming week, write-ups for tourism board on expedition, etc. It’s rainingtoday in Kathmandu.in my room listening to a hippie next door sing somemusic. Oh well, it’s the high season for tourists. Heading to the Rum Doodletonight.Everest summiteers get free food and 15% off alcohol. I think they’llchange their policy after this evening.


17 October: Kathmandu

Had a chance to work most of the day, and take some time off to shop. Whowants what? Huge holiday in Nepal.it’s lasted a whole week.few more days.Met a family who has invited me to celebrate with them tonight.chicken andrice meal and roxy. Nepalese rarely eat meat because it’s so pricey, so theholiday is special for many because it’s one of the few times of the yearthat they’ll consume meat.Ended up chilling in the shop and seeing a little boy do roxy shots and thenhave a few cigs. My jaw dropped, but couldn’t stop laughing.Still can’t feel my toes.the nerve damage will hopefully come back in a fewmonths.everyday pounding from the rocks and climbing have taken their toll.?


19 October

Thanks to National Geographic for the interview this evening. Hanging out ofthe rooftop terrace, looking at the mountains, a drink in my hand, talkingwith Boyd. Not a bad way to spend an evening.Jeroen and I went to a local Nepalese restaurant for dinner. Met someBelgiums next to us, which made Jeroen happy, so they all spoke Dutch andpounded beers while I ate dal bhat.Also, thanks to Explorers Web for the latest interview and the coveragewhile I was on the trail.I’ve been a reader of the website for years.Thinking of putting up the tent on the terrace.I’ll sleep much better therethan in a bed.


20 October — Newari

Had a wonderful afternoon with Jeroen and his girlfriend’s family at theirhome in Patan. They made a traditional Newari celebration dinner, wereceived a gift (Nepali topi), and tikka. The food was incredible, theconversation terrific, and the family’s hospitality was very muchappreciated. Special added bonus – saw a cremation near the river on the wayover. Yepee!


21 October — BBC

Large thanks to the BBC for coming by the offices of The Nepal Trust for aninterview. Stay tuned – they are planning a picture video diary online,world radio feature and world news story for primetime this coming Monday.The BBC attracts a weekly global audience of 241 million people – great newsfor the Tourism Board of Nepal as the expedition and our future campaignworks to promote the ‘Hidden Himalaya’ regions and boost tourism in thecountry.Busy now on writing papers and summaries for various government entities andmedia requests. Too much sitting down, not enough activity.going insane.


25 October Kathmandu — Meeting, After Meeting, After Meeting, and Waiting

Latest Interview with Explorer’s Web is up.http://www.explorersweb.com/trek/news.php?id=19730Below is the October issue of Nepal Traveller, the oldest travel magazine inthe country. They did a story while I was on the expedition. Many thanks tothem. Meetings galore, but we are definitely on Nepali time, so everythingis moving vvvveeeeerrrryyyy slowly.


28 October — National Press Conference

Great news.the national press conference with the Nepal Tourism Board hasbeen set and will be held at their headquarters. This is the officialannouncement of my world record across Nepal on behalf of the Nepal TourismBoard and it’s partners. Both international and national press will berepresented for this historic expedition, and we hope through this pressconference to reach millions of people to help kick start Nepal’s year ofTourism 2011.


1 November — The Wild East, Goodwill Ambassador of Nepal, Guest Radio DJ

A wild press conference yesterday at the Nepal Tourism Board. Someunexpected surprises.but hey, this is Nepal, and adventure ensues everywhereyou go.not just in the remote areas.Here’s a photo of the official acknowledgment letter of the world recordfrom Nepal Tourism Board and Government that I received today. Tomorrow Ihave a secluded meeting with the Minister of Tourism as an intro before thebig ceremony where I am honored to be receiving a Goodwill Ambassadorshipfrom the Hon’ble Sarat Singha Bhandari, Minister for Tourism and CivilAviation, Government of Nepal at the Nepal Embassy in Washington DC on the8th this month. Should be an adventure as well.Today, I also got a chance to be guest RJ (radio DJ) on KEEPS 98.3 FM andhost my own History of Rock radio show. It was a blast! I picked all thesongs for the hour-long show as well.sweet! I’ll get the broadcast soon torock it out.


2 November: Yo, We’re Rockin’ in the Free World

Thanks to the various Foreign Press agencies for covering the story.Qatar English daily .http://www.gulf-times.com/site/topics/article.asp?cu_no=2&item_no=395787&version=1&template_id=44&parent_id=24Thanks to BBC for picture gallery and World News coverage.http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-south-asia-11625219REUTERS/Navesh Chitrakar6Nov: Doha, Qatar LoungeThanks once again to Explorers Web.you want direct coverage of expeditions,they are there!http://explorersweb.com/trek/news.php?id=19747Sitting in the Doha, Qatar airport lounge.waiting 9 hours to get home.fun.Thanks to Rotary Nepal Int. for their celebration and appreciation on theworld record and contribution to social economic development works in Nepal.Also, major thanks to Jeroen for getting me out of Nepal at the airport.only$175US of extra baggage weight! Qatar airways was extremely unreasonable andnitpicking every last item I had with me. Need to get back to thestates.either that or head back to the Humla or Dolpa district in remoteNepal.Kathmandu and it’s crowded streets left me dusty and dazy.10Nov: Washington DC Official Govt. Endorsement and AmbassadorshipTerrific to be back home and see the smiles and hug my family. It is acompletely different world than what I had been experiencing the past 3months in Nepal. I always feel displaced when I return, as if I’m living ina fantasyland, leading 2 lives (adventure athlete, father).which deep down,I am.Had a very pleasant dinner last evening with the Ambassador to Nepal and theMinister Of Nepal Tourism at the Ambassador’s home regarding myAmbassadorship and how we can work together to help promote Nepal and theGHT. I also handed them Jeroen’s and my official report on the expedition.Much work needs to be done, and I hope this is only the beginning of a longcollaboration with assisting the government of Nepal, the GHT, and it’speople in the Hidden Himalaya regions.Skål,Seanwww.SeanBurch.com




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